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THE 



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EXCELSIOR, 

* 7 


OR 


SIMPLIFIED DELINEATOR; 

BEING AN ORIGINAL AND COMPLETE SYSTEM FOR 

DRAUGHTING, BALANCING AND CUTTING 


PANT A 






BASED UPON MATHEMATICAL AND PHILOSOPHICAL PRINCIPLES. 

DELINEATED UPON RIGHT ANGLES, 

WHEREBY 

PANTALOONS CAN BE CUT IN ANY STYLE OR FASHION. 

AND ILLUSTRATED BY 

Engravings, Designs, Table of Measures, Diagrams, and Examples, 

AND SIMPLIFIED BY 

CLASSES OF DIVISIONS, 

Which are placed upon a Square or Ruler, to facilitate the 
process of Draughting, and designated by Nos. 1 , 2, and 3, for 
the Hip Measure, Nos. 4, 5, 6. and 7, for the bottoms, 
and Nos. 8 and 9, for theJ^Vaist Measure. 

BY GEORGE Y. CALLENDINE, 

AUTHOR AND PUBLISH RR OF 

“A Mathematical Principle for Draughting and Cutting Trowsers;” “The Tailors’ Preceptor, 
or Balancing Regulator for Draughting and t utting Pantaloons - The Geometrical 
Regulator, or Circular Transfer, being a Scientific Guide for Draughting, 
Balancing aud Cutting Pantaloons.’’ 


FOURTH EDITION, 

CAREFULLY REVISED, ENLARGED, SIMPLIFIED AND IMPROVED. 

NON CON SCIRE SIBI. 




NEW-YORK: 

WILLIAM S. DORR, PRINTER, 
No. 101 Nassau Street. 

1851. 
























V 




S' 1‘ 


•> I 




































PREFACE 


TO THE 


FOURTH EDITION. 


Gents, —In presenting myself before you again, it would be affectation 
to retain, in this editon of my work, a preface that professes to doubt of its 
favorable reception, inasmuch as I occupy a position before you that has 
never been attained by any professor of garment cutting in this or any 
other country, and since my efforts to advance the art of cutting pantaloons, 
scientifically, (by presenting an entirely new and original system,) has 
been appreciated, and realized, I will take this occasion to say that I am 
pleased with these flattering results, and hope that a reciprocity of mutual 
benefits and good will may continue. 

When I first contemplated the publication of my system in the year ! 
eighteen hundred and forty-seven, I did not aspire to, nor entertain the 
most distant hope of meeting with such favor. 

The character of this work being now fully established, I have only to 
assure the profession that it is not my intention to let this subject repose 
upon the reputation already acquired. 

The first , second and third editions of this work having been disposed 
of, and a fourth called for, I have taken the opportunity which was thus 
offered me to revise the work carefully, and to make it so far as was in my 




\ 

























power, more worthy of a favorable reception, by adding original matter to 
the amount of more than one-fourth of my three former works, and am 
happy therefore, to present it to the artist of judgment and refined taste, 
as the most complete work ever published upon the subject. No better 
proof of its success can be offered than the simple fact that it has been 
tried, approved of, and almost universally adopted by the best artists of our 
principal cities. 

With the foregoing remarks, gentlemen, I will submit the work for your 
investigation, with, a hope that it may be an auxiliary to your perplexing 
business. 

Most Respectfully, 

G. V. CALLENDINE. 





























TO THE TRADE. 


S 

> 

? 

I 


Inasmuch as sundry persons have disposed of my System of Cutting without 
my authority, and have copied or transferred parts of said System, without 
knowing the PENALTY thereof, I have thought proper to take this method of 
warning them against such trespasses, by showing to them the terrors of the 
Law respecting Copy-Rights, and have therefore subjoined parts of said law, 
which, it is hoped, will be a sufficient caution to prevent any further infringe¬ 
ment on my rights. 

Extracts from the Copy-Right Law of the United States : 

Sections 1 & 2 declare, that a copy-right shall be good for 28 years, and 
may then be renewed for 14 years longer. 

Sections 7 & 9.—“ If any person or persons, after the recording the title of 
any print, cut , or engraving , map, chart , musical composition, according to the 
provisions of this act, shall, within the term or terms limited by this act, 
engrave , etch, or work, sell , or copy , or cause to be engraved, etched, worked, 
or sold, or copied, either on the whole, or by varying, adding to, or diminishing 
the main design with intent to evade the law; or shall print or import for sale, 
or cause to be printed or imported for sale, any such map, chart, musical com¬ 
position, print, cut, or engraving, or ANY PARTS THEREOF, without the 
consent of the proprietor or proprietors of the copy-right thereof, first obtained in 
writing, signed in the presence of two credible witnesses; or, knowing the same 
to be printed or imported without such consent, shall publish, sell, or expose to 
sale, or in any manner dispose of any such map, chart, musical composition, en¬ 
graving, cut, or print, without such consent, as aforesaid; then such offender 
or offenders, shall be liable to suffer and pay to the author or proprietor, all 
damages occasioned by such injury, to be recovered by a special action on the 
case founded upon this act, in any court having cognizance thereof; and the 
several courts of the United States empowered to grant injunctions to prevent 
the violation of the rights of authors and inventors, are hereby empowered to 


5 






< 

I 

l 


I 





grant injunctions, in like manner, according to the principles of equity, to 
restrain such trespasses as aforesaid.” 

And the law further says, that those who are not responsible, can be enjoined 
from SELLING or USING the System as aforesaid, by imprisonment. 

S 'fhe law having been made for my security and protection, I shall very prob¬ 
ably use it for that purpose. 

I remain most respectfully, yours, 

G. V. CALLENDINE. 

Communications addressed to me in the care of my Agents will be attended to. 

G. V. C. 


AGENTS. 

J. E. IIADDEN, 265, Broadway, New York. 

JAS. AMERY, 1, Vcsey Street, (Astor House,) New York. 

(Foreman for W. Hindiiaugh,). 

G. W. WRIGHT, 1, Old State House, Boston. 

(Foreman for C. A. Smith & Co.) 

J. W. FISK, 96, Washington Street, Boston. 

(Foreman for Fisk & Cusiiing,) 

J. W. ALBRIGHT, 60, Walnut Street, Philadelphia. 


ALEX. HENRY, 12, South Gay Street, (boyd buildings,) Baltimore. 


fl^T hereby notify all persons USING my System for Drafting and Cutting 
Pantaloons, or any parts thereof, that they will be held responsible for the 
same, unless they have obtained it from the Author, or some of his authorised 

Agents. G. Y. CALLENDINE, New York. 

Office, 265 Broadway. 





CS5 


O. 


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Table of Measures in inches for Pantaloons. 







































































































11 



EXPLANATION OF THE TABLE OF MEASURES, PLATE 1. 


Containing designs showing where and how the tape 
measure is to be applied, and a table elucidating the mode 
of measuring for pantaloons, including the names and order 
of measures that are taken. 

No. 1 . Width of Waistband— from the top of waistband or 
pants, to the top of hip at 1. If the customer desires his 
pants above the hip or hollow of the waist, it should be 
noted, inasmuch as systems for cutting pants have no juris¬ 
diction above the waist. 

No. 2. Outside length— commencing at the top of hip or 
hollow of the waist, to the knee. 

No. 3. Outside length— commencing at the top of hip or 
hollow of waist, and continuing to the bottom—say within a \ 
of an inch of the floor for spring bottom, and to the sole of 
the boot for strapped or gaiter bottom pants. 

No. 4. Inside length— commencing at the fork and follow¬ 
ing the inside of the leg to the bottom, the same as the outside 
length ; this measure should be taken with great care, inas¬ 
much as it gives the height of the body, which if too high or 
too low, will disarrange the fit and hang of the pantaloons. 

No. 5. Height of body — is often taken with a pantaloon 
square, but may be more correctly obtained by deducting 
the inside length from the outside length. 

No. 6. Size of waist— is taken round the smallest part of 
the body under the vest. 

No. 7. Size of belly— should be taken round the body at 2, 
about 3 inches below the waist. 


* 


No. 8. Size of hips— should be taken round the largest part 
of the body at 3. The waist, belly and hip measures should 
be taken moderately close. 

No. 9. Thigh measure— taken straight round at the fork, is 
generally 1 inch larger than half of the hip. 

No. 10. Knee measure— round the bend of joint may be 
taken as large as fashion or fancy directs. 

No. 11 . Leg measure— round the calf of the leg. The three 
last measures, 9-10-1J, are unimportant, unless fashion re¬ 
quires them to give the leg a particular size. 

No. 12. Bottom measure— should be taken round the loot at 
4 for spring-bottom pants, but for gaiter-bottoms the boot 



/ 






















12 


heel and instep should be measured according to the requisi¬ 
tion of fashions. 

No. 13. Recapitulation. —The following measure for spring 
bottom pants arranged thus, 2-22-41 J-32|-30-34-36-19-18- 
may be necessary for inexperienced cutters, while the lengths 
and important sizes arranged thus, 41 J-32^-30-3G-18, will 
be sufficient for practical cutters. 

N. B. Presuming that you understand the table and dis¬ 
cretion of measures referred to, I will remark that my 
manner of measuring is not arbitrary in form, but is as 
much so in size and lengths as that of any other Teacher; 
therefore your way of measuring should correspond with the 
requisitions of the rule you use. If it requires what you call 
a tight or a loose measure, take it so, and don’t say after the 
garment is cut, that “ the rule cuts too tight or too loose who 
ever heard of Rules cutting the tail of a coat too long ? or 
pantaloons too long or too short ? neither will they cut them 
too large or too small. Rules may balance and give propor¬ 
tions to garments, but the tailor’s measure regulates the size 
and length. 

P. S. I have omitted an oblique “proof” measure which is 
taken from the hip, commencing at 1, and carried down 
across the abdomen, between the legs, up across the seat to 
the starting point, and is used by some of the trade who 
have not yet learned that it works a “ complete deception ” by 
confounding size with height, to make height and width ; an 
oblique measure of the body cannot be applied—it is neither 
mathematical nor geometrical, and is therefore an absurdity 
making “ confusion worse confounded.” 



EXPLANATION OF THE SQUARE OF DIVISIONS. 

Consisting of 9 tables, being a division of whole sizes pre¬ 
dicated on the hip, bottom and waist measures, each begin- 
ing at the elbow, and increasing consecutively by order of 
proportions and numbers thus : Divisions No. 1, 2 and 3 are 
composed from the hip measures and set down in full sizes, 
from 30 to 46 inches inclusive. Divisions No. 4, 5, 6 
and 7, are composed from the bottom measures and set down 
in full sizes, from 16 to 22 inches inclusive. Divisions No. 
8 and 9 are composed from the waist measures and set down 
in full sizes, from 25 to 44 inches inclusive. 

The waist measure is used to draught the waist, the hip 
measure to draught the hips, and the bottom measure to 
draught the bottom of pants. 

























13 


GENERAL REMARKS 

UPON 

DRAUGHTING, FASHION, SIZE, PROPORTIONS, CUTTING, &c. 

Sec. i. FIGURES.—The balance and guide points are denoted by 
figures. 

Sec. ii. HANDS—Pointing out the direction of measures, showing the 
starting points, and where the measure should terminate, will be found on 
the draughts. 

Sec. iii. LINES.—The dotted lines designated by letters denotes the 
form of the draught, and the plain black lines the form of the pantaloons as 
they are to be cut. 

Sec. iv. DRAUGHTING. The fore-part should be draughted until 
you become familiar with the system. Draught a fore-part in the middle 
of the cloth, and draught the back part, which should also be well under¬ 
stood before you commence cutting. 

The system is arranged to draught the narrow fore-part and wide back- 
part, which meets with general favor, and has been adopted by the best of 
the trade, therefore I would recommend that style for all sizes ; it distri¬ 
butes the cloth more proportionately around the body, gives more comfort 
to the wearer, and makes the body and legs appear more round and 
graceful. 

Sec. v. HEIGHT OF BODY.—From the fork to the waist is from 9 to 
10 inches for men of an ordinary size, and from 10 to 11 or twelve for very 
large men, which may be correctly obtained by deducting the inside from 
the outside length. The body of the pants should not be cut lower than 
the waist, but may be cut higher, provided the draught is made at the waist , 
and sprung out above the hips, (see Diagrams 9 and 10, Plate 6.) The 
fall-seam should be rounded from a I to 1 inch back of the line at the waist, 
so as to correspond with the form of the belly ; the front of the fail 
should be raised for large men, according to the size and form of the 
belly. I have known tailors of high repute to spoil large men’s pants by 
cutting them above the waist and draughting from the top of the pants ; 
and again have known them to “ kill” the pants by cutting them below the 
waist, all of which would be attributed to an imaginary defect in the rule, 
merely because they are ignorant of the proportions of the human form, 
or unlearned upon that subject which contributes more to their welfare 
than any other. 

















^) N 


14 


Sec. vi. BOTTOMS.—When sprung suddenly out at the sides, should 
be rounded down more on the front and sides of back part. 

Sec. vii. CENTRES—Of heel and fore part are supposed to be opposite 
by a small few of the trade who have not yet learned that the toes turning out 
at an angle of about 45 degrees, makes a difference between the centres 
on a flat surface, which are important, and therefore should be correctly 
obtained, inasmuch as the former gives the latter, and is also a guide for 
the straps; when the centres are obtained, we can tell where the seams 
will fall on the boot. If the toes turn in more than usual, the outside 
seams should be separated, and if they turn out much, the alteration should 
be reversed. 

Sec. viii. FASHION—or fancy governs the size of the leg of pants, 
which should be reduced or increased equal on each side by the judgment of 
the artist, therefore I have drawn straight lines as a guide, and reduced them 
to correspond with the present styles. Straight and tight pants are cut 
nearly square across the bottom. 

Sec. ix. SIZE OF BODY combines fitting principles, such as height, 
width, stride, straddle, form, grace and comfort. Inexperienced cutters 
are apt to cut the side-seam of the fore-part too straight over the upper hip 
joint, and thereby make many unaccountable misfits, such as drawing about 
the fork, hanging badly, seeming to be improperly balanced, and too short in 
the leg, when they are long enough. If they are cut too low on the body 
the same difficulties will be manifest. 

Sec. x. CUTTING—Pantaloons may be cut out of black cassimere as re¬ 
presented by Diagrams 3 and 4, Plate 3, yet they would hang better by 
being cut on an equal bias of the goods, which can be done by draughting 
the bottom of fore-part 2 or 3 inches over from the edge. Ribbed, striped, 
and plaid goods should be cut on an equal bias, so that the stripes run 
straight down the legs, one of which should be on the centre of the fore 
part, and the other on the centre of the heel. 

Sec. xi. DRESS AND NON-DRESS.—I would recommend cutting out 
one side of the fore-part for dress, as denoted by dotted lines 3 and 4 r (Dia¬ 
gram 3, Plate 3,) which makes the pants set smoother about the crotch. 

Gentlemen generally dress on the left side, and therefore the top side 
should be cut out about half an inch, but if your customer dresses on the 
right side, the same should be cut out on the underside. When shaping 
the fall-seam, the dress-side should be formed above curve I, and the 
non-dress side below the curve as denoted by the dotted lines on the 
draught. 

y/,a \ — - - - - __ V/Y 

















15 


/ 


Sec. xii. GORES—should be cut out of the back-part over the top of the 
hips, about half way between 15 and 19 as marked on the draughts, which 
makes them set closer to the waist, and gives more room for the hips. 
When the body is cut higher than the waist, a long gore should be 
cut out as denoted by Diagram 10, Plate 6 ; the breadth of the gore at 
the waist-seam should be about £ an inch, and the length about 2 inches. 

Sec. xiii. WAISTBANDS.—The draughts represents pants with 
waistbands which should be cut about 2 inches wide, and of circular form. 

Sec. xiv. FLYS—should be cut like the fall seam, and long enough to 
run down to the fork-point. 

Sec. xv. WHOLE FALLS—are cut like fly-fronts, and the fall-bearer 
should be cut to match the fore-part, see Diagram 11, Plate 7. 

Sec. xvi. STRAPS—should be formed and cut as fashion or fancy directs, 
say from 1 to 2 inches wide. The present style of tight legged pants re¬ 
quires a narrow strap, with one button hole in each end to keep them from 
slipping up. 

Sec. xvii. NOTCHES—should be made before the fore-part is moved 
from the back-part; they are indispensable guides for the maker, and 
without which, the pants cannot be properly put together. The fore-part 
when draughted as directed, will be i an inch shorter than the under-side 
from the lower notches to the bottom, and should be stretched out before 
the seams are sewed. 


Sec. xviii. WIDE FORE-PARTS—are an old unfashionable and un¬ 
graceful kind of pants, which must be cut when you have a short pattern 
of cassimere, (see Diagram 13, Plate 8.) Some of the superannuated, but 
would-be-knowing fashionable tailors, don’t know how to cut them any 
other way. 

Sec. xix. THE DRAUGHTS—are well formed and represent very 
acurately the present styles, and I would therefore advise the learner to 
examine and imitate them whilst forming the pants, which will require 
practice in draughting, judgment and taste in execution. 

























1G 

EXPLANATION FOR DRAUGHTING FORE-PART. 
DIAGRAM 1, PLATE 2. 



Measure from lto 4, 9 £ inches, (height of body ;) continue to knee, 22 ; 
to bottom at 3, 4If inches. Lay the square across the cloth at 4, placing 
36 on division No. 3 at the edge, mark at 5, 36 on division No. 2 ; at 6, 36 
on division No. 1, and at the end of the square at 7. Next from 3 to 8> 
the distance of 18 on division No. 4. Draw line A from 8 to 5 ; square 
line B by the balance line ; from B measure up line A to 5, 32f inches, 
length of leg seam ; from which, square line C across by the balance line? 
then square up line D from 6 ; square line E across by line D. Measure 
from 8 to 9, 18 on division No. 4 ; draw line F from 3 to 4 ; line G from 9 
to 7 ; add f of an inch to each side of the bottom for spring, and shape 
them as per Diagram. Measure from 6 to 10, 36 on division No. 1, from 
which point draw line H parallel with the balance line. Measure from 10 
to 11, 36 on No. 1 ; from 10 to 12, 36 on No. 1. Sweep curve I by the 
distance given from 11 to 12 making 12, the pivot; round the front from D to 
13, say i an inch, and shape the fall-seam and fork as represented. 
Measure from 13 to 15, 30 on division No. 8 ; from D to 2, one f of the 
belly measure, less 1 inch ; then shape the round of hip from 51 to 4, like 
the draught ; this fore-part belongs to Diagram 4, Plate 3, see General 
Remarks, Section iv., page 13. 


DIAGRAM NO. 2 , 

Represents how the fore-part should be cut out of plaid goods with a 
stripe on the side, and is draughted like Diagram No. 1., except in the fol¬ 
lowing particulars, namely, that it is draughted by 32 inches waist, 38 
inches hips, and 19 inches bottom; therefore, we will use the size of 38 
on divisions Nos. 1, 2, 3, at the hip, 19 on division No. 4, at the bottom, 
and 32 on division No. 8, at the waist. The stripe being cut on the side of the 
fore-part, precludes the possibility of putting spring on the outside seam at 
the bottom, therefore we will put li inches spring on the inside from 9 to 
0, which when stretched and shrunk into proper form, makes the balance 
line the centre of the fore-part. 

A gore should be cut out from 1 to 2, and the stripe sewed on to the 
side, so as to look like the draught. Line G is drawn inside of the fork 
point, at 7, about k an inch, which gives size for dress. See General 

Remarks, Section xi., page 14. 






















Plate 2 


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v • ■■ ) g 





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PI ate 3 



Drannv ~by CtMendixves 






























































































































































































































































































































































































































EXPLANATION TO DRAUGHT THE UNDERSIDE. 
DIAGRAM 4, PLATE 3. 


This draught represents the narrow fore-part and spring bottom panta¬ 
loons without straps, showing how they may be cut out of the cloth, 
before doing which, you should learn the system. See General Remarks, 
Section iv., page 13. 

Draught the fore-part near the middle of the cloth, then square 
line B across the bottom by the balance line, lay the square across 
the bottom of the fore-part, placing 18 on division No. 6 on the balance 
line. Mark at 18 on division No. 5 for the centre of the heel, at the end 
of the square at 9 for the inside seam, and at 5, 18 on division No- 
7, for the outside seam ; measure in from 9 to 8, 1 inch, and draw 
line L from 8 to 7; measure in from 5 to 6, two inches; from 4 
out to 17, two inches, and draw line K from 6 to 17. Shape the seams 
from about curves Y and W to 5 and 9 ; drop the curve of bottom at 5 and 
9, about i an inch below line B, and form it gradually up to the heel. 

Take the distance from M to 4, make 4 the pivot, and sweep curve N 
from M; take the distance from 11 to 12, and mark the same from 7 
down to 10; make 10 the pivot and sweep curve P from 7 to 13 ; take 
the distance from 20 to M, (2 inches.) and add it from 7 out to 13 ; form 
the seat from N to 13, and from 13 to 0 ; sweep curve S from 15 to 19> 
making T the pivot ; draw line D up to 16 ; mark from 16 to 19, 30 on 
division No. 9, and shape the side-seam from 19 down to 17. Sweep 
curve R from 15 to 18 by the distance given from 15 to M : making M 
the pivot ; draw a straight line from 18 to 19 ; take out a i inch gore half 
way between 15 and 19; measure the breadth of front from 13 to 15, and 
the back from 19 to 21, 15 inches, (half the full size of waist) ; allow 1 
inch for seams and gore, and shape the back from 18 to N. Take the 
chalk in the left hand, make T the pivot, and cast curve V about 12 
inches up from the bottom; by the same length cast curve W from 7' 
Take the chalk in the right hand, and cast curve T from V, and curve 10 
from YV. These last four curves will give notches to make them by. 
See General Remarks, Section xvii., page 15. 

Line Y represents the centre of the fore-parts, and the line upon which 
they should be shrunk in making, and is found by taking half the full size 
of the bottom and applying it from the centre of the heel round to the 
centre of the fore part, or by placing the end of the square at the centre of 
the heel, and marking at 18 on No. 4, see Diagrams No. 8 and 10. Now 
if you understand my mode of draughting, yoy may cut the pants out of 
the goods to the most advantage. For further particulars see General 
Remarks, Section x., page 14. 


















22 

FORE-PART, DIAGRAM 5, PLATE 4. 

Represents plaid goods, and the way the pants are cut to make the 
plaids match round the leg, while the stripes run straight up and down, to 
produce which, we will draught the fore-part in the following manner : 
First, by marking the height of body and length of leg, then lay the 
square across the goods at 4, placing 38 of No. 3 on the edge of the cloth; 
mark at 38 on No. 2, for the balance line ; 38 on No. 1, for the fall-seam, 
and at the end of the square at 7 for the fork-point ; make the balance line 
on the stripe, or parallel with the edge of the cloth ; square the cross 
lines as formerly directed, and mark from 8 to 3, the distance of 19 on 
No. 4 ; and from 8 to 9, the distance of 19 on No. 4; draw line F from 3 
to 4, and line G from 9 to 7, which is i an inch inside of the fork point; 
add \k inches spring, from 9 to 6, which makes the balance line the centre 
of the fore-part; now finish the fore part as previously directed by Dia¬ 
grams Nos. 1 and 2, forming it like the draught. See General Remarks, 
Section xix., page 15. 

This way of cutting would seem to waste cloth which cannot be avoided 
when the plaids are cut to match. 

-. * . - 



DIAGRAM 6. 

Is made after the fore-part is cut and laid over on the cloth so as to 
make the plaids match, and is draughted like Diagram No. 4, Plate 3, 
but by a larger measure ; the bottom is draughted by 19 inches, therefore 
we will place 19 of Division No. 6 on the balance line ; mark at 19 on 
No. 5, at the star, for the centre of the heel ; at the end of the square at 
9 for the inside seam, and at 5, 19 on No 7, for the outside-seam. 
Measure in from 5 to 6, 2 inches, and from 4 out to l 1 */, 2 inches ; draw 
line K from 6 to 17, and shape the side seam from 17 to 5 inside of line 
K as marked. Measure in from 9 to 8, 1 inch; draw line L from 8 to 7; 
take the distance from 20 to M, 2^ inches i add it from the fork-point to 
13 and shape the seam from 13 to 9, marking it a trifle inside of line L, as 
denoted by the draught ; mark from 16 to 19, 32 on table No. 9, and shape 
^he seam from 19 to 17 ; take the distance from M to 4; make 4 the pivot 
and sweep curve N from M ; take out a i inch gore half way between 15 
and 19. Measure the breadth of fore-part and back-part to 21, 16 inches ; 
add the seams and gore; sweep curve R from 15 to 18 by the dis¬ 
tance given from 15 to M ; makeing M the pivot. In all other respects 
finish the draught like Diagram 4, Plate iii. Make notches at 10, T y 
W and V. For particulars see General Remarks, Section xvii., page 15. 
The fore-part of this draught should be shrunk on the balance line. 


N. B. Presuming that you understand my mode of draughting, I deem 
it unnecessary to give a full explanation of this and the succeeding 
draughts. 























Plate 4 




































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































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27 



DIAGRAM NO. 7, PLATE 5. 


Represents a fore-part draughted by 42 inches outside 
length, 32 inside length, 36 inches waist, 40 inches hips, 
00 knee, 20 inches bottom, which, on account of the size, 
will cut to a better advantage by commencing at the bot¬ 
tom. Measure from the bottom of the cloth, following up 
the edge to the hips, 32 inches; to the waist, 42. Mark 
across to the lork, by 40 on Nos. 3-2-1, and at the end of the 
square ; make point 3 about 1 inch in from the edge and 
mark to 8, 20 on No. 4 ; from 8 to 9, 20 on No. 4 ; draw line 
A, and square the cross lines, the fall-seam, and finish the 
crotch ; square the waist line across by the fall-seam ; round 
the lall-seam in at the top about f- of an inch, and measure 
from 13 to 15, the size of the waist on No. 8 ; draw lines F, 
and G; add f of an inch spring to each side of the bottom, 
and shape the lore-part like the draught, hollowing the out¬ 
side seam at the knee to make them proportionately smaller 
in the leg. This fore-part, when cut, belongs to 


DIAGRAM NO. 8, 


And may be laid over on the cloth so as to have 
the underside cut to the most advantage. Lay the square 
across the bottom as represented by the ruler, placing 
20 of No. 6 on the balance line ; mark at 20 on No. 5 for 
the centre of the heel, the end of the square for the inside- 
seam, and at 20 of No. 7, for the outside-seam. The centre 
of the fore-part is obtained by placing the end of the square 
at the centre of the heel, and mark at 20 on No. 4; 
the straight lines may be drawn as before ; sweep from 7 
to 13 by the distance given from 11 to 12, making 10 the 
pivot; the distance from 20 to M, for this size, is 2f 
inches, and should be added from 7 to 13 ; sweep curve 
N by the distance given from M to 4 ; the distance from 16 
to 19 is obtained by placing the end of the square at 16, and 
marking at 36 on No. 9; from 4 to 17 is 2 inches. This 
draught being for a large size, should be hollowed inside of 
line L about \ of an inch, and from \ to 1 inch at K, which 
will probably make them as small in the leg as fashion or 
fancy requires ; they are made like the preceding draughts, 
and formed by fancy, judgment and taste. 


















DIAGRAM NO. 9, PLATE 6. 


Is a fore-part draughted like the others preceding, but on 
account of the large size of body should be reduced more 
proportionately in the leg to correspond with the present 
style, the body is draughted higher than the waist, and 
therefore the waist measure should be applied at the waist, 
and not at the top of the pants; we presume the proper 
height of body to be 11 inches, but the top of the pants to be 
13 inches, and a waistband 2 inches wide to go on top of 
that, the leg-seam is 32 inches which makes the full outside 
length 47. The width of fore-part is obtained by the size of 
the waist on Division No. 8, at the waist, or top of the 
hip, any portion of the pants going above that should be 
sprung out by judgment. This fore-part belongs to 

DIAGRAM NO. 10, 

Which is draughted like the others, except in the follow¬ 
ing particulars, viz. ; That the body being cut higher than 
the waist, we should draught at the waist, say from 16 ; fol¬ 
lowing the waist line to 19, is 40 on division No. 9 ; the 
back-part above the waist should be sprung out as it rises 
on the body. From the centre of the heel to the centre of 
the fore-part is 19 on No. 4. 

N. B. You must be careful how you draught the back 
part of pants that rise above the waist; for further par¬ 
ticulars see General Remarks, Section v., page 13. 















Plate 6. 



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Plate 


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33 






EXPLANATION FOR LARGE MEN’S PANTALOONS. 
DIAGRAM NO. 11, PLATE 7. 




This draught is intended to represent pants for a man 
measuring 43 inches outside length, 31^ inside length ; 
height ot body, 11J inches, 44 inches waist, 44 hips, 18 bot¬ 
tom, and is draughted like the preceding draughts, there¬ 
fore, a description of the mode of draughting, seems to be 
not only unnecessary, but a waste of time ; but inasmuch as 
they are above the ordinary size, I will remark that from 4 
to 17 is 2 inches ; and from 7 to 13 is 2-f- ; the width of fore¬ 
part is obtained by 44 on Division No. 8 ; and the back-part 
from 16 to 19 is 44 on Division No. 9 ; they are reduced more 
in the leg, to correspond with fashion and good taste ; they 
represent whole-fall pants ; the fall-bearer is cut like the 
fore-part, and designated by dotted lines: the fall-seam j s 
made more round, and the fork is shaped a little different 
from the others, as may be seen by the draught ; this draught 
is so marked that it seems to explain itself, therefore I will 
omit any further explanation. (See General Remarks, Sec. 
xv., page 15.) 
























DIAGRAM N0. 12, PLATE 8. 


Represents a plainer pantaloons than has yet been des¬ 
cribed, but being the size of Diagrams Nos. 3 and 4, I would 
recommend you to draught them in the middle of the cloth, 
and like the draught on Plate 3, after which you may alter 
it in the following manner ; recollecting that the balance 
points are designated by figures 3, 8, 9, 2, 5, and what you 
deduct from one point should be added to the other: there¬ 
fore I will propose that from 3 to G you add J of an inch, and 
draw dotted line F from 6 to 4, which increases the outside 
of the fore-part, to counter-balance which you should deduct 
from the outside of the back-part the same amount that you 
have added to the fore-part; from 9 to 11 add 1 inch, and 
draw line G from 10 to M, to equalize the balance of 
which, you should deduct from the inside of the under-part 
the same amount that was added to the inside of the fore¬ 
part ; add of an inch spring to each side of the front, this 
will make a plain fashionable pantaloons ; we will suppose 
this bottom to have been draughted by 17 inches, but may 
be made 18 by adding an inch to each side of the back 
part. 

DIAGRAM NO. 13, 

Represents a plain square bottom, to draught which we 
will consider line K the edge of the cloth; mark from 1 to 
3, 1^ inches ; from 3 to 8, 18 on No. 4 ; from 1 to 2, 9 inches, 
(or hall' the size of the bottom;) draw line E from 2 to M, 
and finish the draught like Diagram 6, which is the same 
size. 

The balance points of the bottom, as made by Diagrams 3 
and 4, are represented by figures 3, 8 and 9 on the fore-part, 5 
and 10 for the back-part; 1 denotes a point half way be¬ 
tween 3 and 5, and 2 denotes a point half way between 9 
and 10, therefore the pantaloons are balanced like those of 
the preceding draughts. If you want them smaller in the 
leg and at the bottom, they may be reduced on each side of 
the fore-part as denoted by dotted lines F and G. 

We will now suppose that we want to make the fore-part 
wider than the rule makes it, to do which I will suggest that 
you add 1 inch to the outside of the fore-part from the top to the 
hip, continuing to the knee or bottom, as denoted by dotted 
line C, and deduct the same from the back-part, as denoted 
by dotted line D, which maintains the regular size and 
balance. See General Remarks, Section xviii., page 15. 




























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